THE BLACK POLICE IN QUEENSLAND
REMINISCENCES
            OF OFFICIAL
            WORK
AND
            PERSONAL ADVENTURES IN
THE EARLY
            DAYS OF THE COLONY
BY EDWARD
            B. KENNEDY
1902
“Far as
            the breeze can bear
The
            billows’ foam, survey
            our Empire.”
         
          I
          venture to think that the following account of some of my
          early Colonial
          experiences may interest the British Public, and also my old
          friends of those
          days.
         
          The
          first, because everything connected with our Colonies has
          excited unusual
          interest since the opening of the South African War, and
          Queensland, Great
          Britain and Ireland’s youngest and perhaps most progressive
          possession, has,
          together with her sister Colonies, come nobly and grandly to
          the front at the
          Call to Arms.
         
          The
          second, because these reminiscences, slightly to paraphrase an
          old song, will
          remind “Old bushmates of days that are past,” of “Sunny days-
          our later
          Queensland toast.
         
          The
          two pen-and-ink drawings speak for themselves, but a pathetic
          interest is added
          to them from the fact of their having been executed by the
          hand of the late Sir
          Frank Lockwood. During a visit home, connected with business,
          I mentioned to
          him, then Mr. Lockwood, that I had got along fairly well with
          the black “boys.”
          Also, that having visited New Zealand for a few days, I had
          been informed that
          the Maoris were “now quite civilised.” The result was that I
          received the two
          humorous illustrations bearing the artist’s remarks which
          appear at p 266.
         
          I am
          indebted to Messrs. J. Spiller, P. Mennell, and Hubert
          Garroway for many of the
          photographs of “The Black Police of Queensland” which have
          been reproduced to
          illustrate this book. Those referring to the 1860s are from
          originals given to
          me in those old days; old pictures which I have never thought
          would reproduce,
          but in my publisher’s hands they have come out as clearly and
          truthfully as on
          the day they were first taken.
         
          The
          photographs of Chillagoe, District of Cairns, I insert to give
          an idea of what
          some portions of a rocky barrier in Queensland are like, for I
          have never been
          so far north. Chillagoe lies some thousand miles northwest of
          Brisbane.
         
          This
          district is famous for its stalacite caves and waterfalls; one
          of the latter,
          named “The Barron,” has a fall seven hundred feet.
         
          Though
          in two or three cases I have not given the real names of
          certain individuals,
          and in one instance, have altered the locality of a district,
          yet the incidents
          throughout these pages are my own experiences. Where I quote,
          I mention the
          fact, as in Chapter XI. As stated, I heard the account from
          Blake’s own lips.
         
          So I
          launch my story of the Land of the Queen, where I spent some
          of my earliest and
          happiest days.
EARLY
            DAYS IN QUEENSLAND
Early days in Queensland – Colonial Experience – Somerset Land Sale- “Tickets for Soup”- Visit to a Cattle Station- My Friend the Parson- Tame Blacks- A Sable Orator- A Glance at the Duties of the Queensland Native Police- The Gentleman “Cabby.”
         
          Queensland
          has nobly come forward, together with her sister Colonies, to
          fight for the old
          country during the present war; and as I have lived there for
          some years during
          the period of her earlier history- she separated from New
          South Wales in 1859,
          whilst I landed in Moreton Bay in 1864- I feel that I may
          offer at the present
          date a few notes concerning the history of the Colony during
          those early days
          and further place on record certain incidents and experiences
          which befell me,
          especially during the time which I served in the more northern
          parts of the
          Colony in the Native Mounted Police, or “Black Police,” for by
          this name the
          force was often known. In the reminiscences, I by no means
          rely entirely upon
          memory, for I still retain my old Queensland diaries, together
          with some
          official papers connected with the force in which I served.
         
          I
          will describe this force, together with the life I led in it,
          more fully in
          subsequent chapters, and though I have some of my old Slater’s
          diaries to fall
          back upon, yet I can remember without external aid many
          scenes, incidents, and
          names of men, connected with those days better than I can
          sometimes call to
          mind events of last week and people’s names of later periods.
          I take it that
          the simple reason is that a “new chum,” having landed in a new
          country and not
          long out of his teens has every incident vividly and lastingly
          impressed on his
          memory.
         
          It is
          obvious that great changes have occurred in this go-ahead
          Colony since the
          1860s. Civilisation has made enormous strides, and a vast
          extent of country,
          especially the coast line extending right up to the Gulf, is
          now under tillage.
          Most of this was formerly waste land.
         
          During
          the many years that I have been at home, I have so often been
          questioned as to
          the area of Queensland, and what the life was like, that I
          will endeavour to
          put into writing answers to these and other questions, which,
          in all important
          details, will apply to the present year of Grace.
         
          It is
          not an idle boast to state that Queensland is one of the
          largest of the British
          Colonies, possessing as it does an area of 668,000 square
          miles- five times the
          size of the United Kingdom. The Colony comprises the whole
          northeastern portion
          of the Australian continent. It may also be remarked that some
          of the
          settlements in the interior are over 600 miles from the
          capital, Brisbane. This
          will give some idea of the extent of country within her
          limits.
         
          The
          population on December 31st, 1867, was 100,000, and
          on December 31st,
          1899, 512,604.
         
          When
          the emigrants first came out under the agency of Mr. Jordan,
          labour was in
          great demand- in fact, for a longtime the supply was not equal
          to the demand,
          so large were the orders from the country. Some of the
          emigrants brought money
          with them, and commenced business in the towns, so that houses
          and land rents
          advanced, and buildings were put up; but the temporary
          prosperity- for so it
          could only be called- which existed at the time, was mainly
          due to the
          expenditure of borrowed capital in the construction of public
          works. Many of
          these public works were certainly of doubtful necessity, but
          any permanent
          benefit, with a view to consolidating the Colony, and giving
          inducement to the
          people to settle on the lands, was scarcely thought of. Those
          who attempted
          farming at that time were ruined- not ruined from natural
          causes, but because
          the land laws of that period obliged the farmer to spend all
          his capital at one
          fell blow in purchase money and fencing.
         
          Emigrants
          still poured in with every ship, but latterly, during the
          1860s, and shortly
          before emigration was stopped, of what class? Chiefly the
          refuse and scum of
          London and the manufacturing towns, who landed on Queensland
          shores totally
          devoid both of capital and character. I think I saw the
          biggest lot of roughs
          landed in a port north of Brisbane that I had ever seen in my
          life, trooping
          out of a ship. They were no sooner ashore than they formed
          rings in the one
          street of the township and stripped to fight; whilst in the
          bars of the
          settlement, they relieved the inhabitants of their watches and
          money, merely to
          show their proficiency, however, and “how it was done,” for
          they immediately
          returned the spoil to their owners. One man told me it was a
          very interesting
          experiment, but “paltry easy, ‘cos, you see, ‘taint
          pocket-pickin’; you carries
          your paper money and watches on your belts.”
         
          About
          the time that influences such as these were in themselves
          injuring the Colony,
          the Government supplies were suddenly stopped by the failure
          of the Agra and
          Masterman’s banks, followed by the suspension of the Bank of
          Queensland, which
          caused the failure of numbers in both town and country, not
          only crippling the
          Government, but causing thousands to lose appointments, and
          suddenly stopping
          almost all the salaries. A reckless system had been going on
          of working on
          credit, and, of course, all this was sufficient and more than
          sufficient to
          bring on the serious consequences which ensued, and in
          Brisbane there was even
          an attempt at a bread riot. It was the old story of a new
          country, and when the
          smash came, the Colony found itself with a numerous unemployed
          and destitute
          population, a variety of expensive public works unfinished, an
          empty exchequer,
          and a heavy debt.
         
          However,
          the tide turned at last, no matter how sluggishly, and a
          slight change for the
          better took place. The check had the effect of inducing many
          persons to reduce
          their indebtedness before undertaking fresh liabilities, and
          thus producing a
          sounder and more healthy state of trade.
         
          The
          facilities which the insolvency laws afforded for applying the
          “white-washing”
          process in an easy manner encouraged the growth of a class of
          “mushroom
          traders,” without capital. This evil cured itself, and people
          found that it was
          not always safe to run into debt without being able to pay.
         
          Some
          progress, too, was made in farming, and it soon proved, by
          repeated experiments
          of the most conclusive nature, that Queensland could grow
          sugar as well and
          better that the West India Islands, wheat as well as Chili or
          California, and
          cotton as well as the southern States of America.
         
          Thus
          it was evident that the best way to secure the future
          prosperity of the country
          was to apply the lands of the Colony to agricultural purposes,
          and by a liberal
          land law to induce the people to settle on these lands; thus
          giving a start to
          a settled population who, by growing sugar and cotton, wheat,
          and ordinary farm
          produce, would save many thousands of pounds sent annually out
          of the Colony
          for these articles.
         
          This
          conviction being energetically advanced by the Press led to
          the Government
          passing an Act, which has been superseded by better ones
          since. This first Act,
          however, was the first real movement towards redeeming the
          land in the settled
          districts from the squatter, and applying it to more
          profitable purposes; also
          many miles in the district, some of them set apart for
          railways, were
          proclaimed as open for free selection for agricultural
          purposes.
         
          I
          think it is hardly necessary to follow up the growth of this
          grand Colony.
          Suffice it to say, what every one should be aware of, that
          Queensland has made
          giant strides since those days of struggle, and now bids fair,
          from being the
          youngest of the Australian colonies, and so favoured by
          nature, to take a
          strong lead, especially in the direction of tropical
          productions.
         
          [I
          expressed my decided views, shared by all sugar-growers of
          tropical Queensland,
          against the present labour policy of the Commonwealth with
          regard to that crop,
          in the following letter published in the British
            Australian of 31
          October 1901:
“Sir,-I have followed with
            interest certain
            statements in the daily papers connected with the struggle
            which is now going
            on in Australia between those on the one hand who wish to
            retain their sugar
            plantations as a going concern by means of the coloured
            labour which they have
            always employed, on the other by individuals who know but
            little of the
            practical working and inner life of the canefields.
How many of these, whose object,
            if carried out,
            would spell ruin in the Queensland sugar industry, have ever
            tried their hand
            at ‘trashing’ cane themselves in the northern parts of that
            Colony?
I mention that portion because I
            was there myself
            for some years during the sixties, and into the seventies,
            and growing sugar.
            But better than my own small experience, I prefer to quote
            remarks exchanged
            between myself and one of the greatest and most successful
            pioneers of sugar in
            Northern Queensland, Mr. John Spiller, whose plantations
            were only divided by a
            river from that of mine and my partner’s, and with whom I
            have been staying
            lately in England. We had seen it proved that planting and
            hoeing cane was
            deadly enough work for white man, but trashing!-this proved
            the ‘dead finish.’
It is, of course, an old story
            for planters, but let
            the ‘New Chum’ endeavour to picture the following
            description: A dense jungle
            of Bourbon or other canes. Overhead, anything from 120 up in
            the sun. Inside, a
            furnace of shade, with not a breath of air; but worse was to
            follow, for every
            leaf that one tears away of ‘trashes’ liberates a host of
            invisible spikelets
            of some description, which fasten upon the skin and set up a
            horrible
            irritation.
This subtle dart pierces even the
            clothing which is
            worn in those latitudes, but it touches not the velvety
            epidermis of the naked
            Kanaka, who laughs at such work, and is as much in his
            element in this
            suffocating prickly thickets as he would be were he sporting
            instead in the
            river near by.
One case in point will suffice,
            and can be proved up
            to the hilt, were proof required. Some forty white men,
            diggers out of work,
            came to the plantation of my friend and asked for a job at
            anything. The place
            was full up with hands, and they were told so, but were also
            informed that they
            might as extra men try ‘trashing’ if so inclined. They
            jumped at the chance.
            ‘What! Pulling off leaves and good pay for it!’ But in a few
            days out they came
            and begged for any other job in the world. They then exposed
            their arms,
            chests, and backs, and wished further to exhibit their legs.
            Their whole bodies
            were in a state of inflamed eruption.
There is no exaggeration in these
            statements, and
            let any one deny them who can.
Now, ‘Australia for the White
            Man,’ is a good and
            sound enough motto, generally speaking, but let an exception
            be made on
            plantations, which, by the employment of coloured labour
            chiefly, can thus only
            be made to pay at all. I say, chiefly, because, after all,
            is not one white man
            required for every three blacks? Do not by a mistaken policy
            ruin the sugar
            pioneers of the grand Colony of Queensland. Spoil not your
            ship for want of a
            penn’orth of dark paint!
Yours etc.
E. B. Kennedy.”
It was during the sixties that a
          great rush was made
          by both large and small capitalists to buy Government land.
          These allotments
          were situated in towns and their suburbs, also on the coast
          and inland
          districts, often where there was no sign of a settlement, but
          where the
          Government surveyors had been at work, and the land
          subsequently advertised for
          sale. Sometimes, after selling the land, the Government would
          desert the site
          of the settlements which they had put up to auction. I give a
          case to exemplify
          this. On April 4, 1865, the first sale of Crown lands for the
          new settlement of
          Somerset took place in Brisbane. Somerset lies on the eastern
          side of Cape
          York, the most northern point of Australia, about eleven
          degrees south of the
          equator. The lots offered, seventy in number, were all town
          lots and were
          bought up with great eagerness at a very great advance on the
          upset price,
          which was fixed at £20 per acre. It averaged £149 per acre!
         
          Such
          was the excitement in connection with this sale that two old
          squatters of my
          acquaintance came hurrying out from England to be in time for
          the bidding, for
          was not Somerset to be the coaling depot and chief place of
          call for the Torres
          Straits line of steamers, and to be a free-trade port into the
          bargain?
         
          And
          the result? Shortly after the sale, and before anything
          further was done, the
          Government shifted the port of call to Thursday Island and
          entirely dropped
          Somerset, owing to the fact, so we were told, that the harbour
          of the latter
          place was unsuitable for ships, which fact, one might think,
          could have been
          discovered before the sale. I have the names of all the
          purchasers, seventy in
          number, self included, and should be very glad to know whether
          any one holding
          title deeds of this Somerset Crown land sale could afford any
          information in
          the matter. It was indirectly owing to this rush for land
          which caused me to
          sail from England at the time I did, for one of the squatters
          before mentioned,
          whom I knew, suggested we should travel by the same ship. So
          we came out in one
          of the grand full-rigged clipper ships of that period, making
          the run from
          London to Moreton Bay in eighty-four days.
         
          I
          cannot say that my first experiences on arriving in Brisbane
          were encouraging.
          I had brought out the usual “tickets for soup,” better known
          as letters of
          introduction. The first one which I made use of introduced me
          to a pecuniary
          loss- a debt which I have long since “written off.” My idea of
          what constitutes
          a gentleman is thus summed up- a man who acts fairly to his
          fellow creatures-
          who, in fine, “plays the game.” No matter of what his birth or
          parentage
          consists, that man is a gentleman. But the “new chum” in any
          Colony often finds
          that his old country opinion is quite old-fashioned and
          erroneous
          classification. For all that, when he has once been bitten at
          an early age,
          provided that the wound is not deep, it will do him good and
          make him more
          careful all the rest of his life.
         
          My
          case can be stated very shortly. Armed with my letter, I was
          received most
          kindly and graciously by him to whom it was addressed- a man
          of good old
          English birth. One evening at dessert, he turned to me with a
          benevolent smile.
         
          “A
          splendid chance is just open for a young man like you to
          advance me a few
          hundreds, for which I pay you a good interest, and, besides,
          give you a
          mortgage over the whole of my vineyards.”
         
          Here
          was indeed a good opening. I rose to it! Jumped at it! Signed
          and sealed the
          matter then and there, and the next day strolled in to a
          solicitor of the town,
          with the intention of leaving the rest of the business in his
          hands.
“Well, you are a young soft! Why in
          thunder didn’t
          you come to me before you ‘parted’?” he stormed out,
          when he heard my
          story. “You have not got the first mortgage, I know for
          certain, and I doubt if
          you’ve even the second.”
         
          So it
          proved. I received some small interest paid irregularly; at
          length this ceased,
          and I stand a loser to the end of time for the greater part of
          my first
          investment. So I put away the rest of my “tickets,” and
          determined to go up
          country at the first opportunity. As luck would have it, I
          made the acquaintance
          of a genial squatter at the Queensland Club, who asked me to
          stay a few days on
          his station, which was situated some miles from Ipswich.
          Together we proceeded,
          doing the first part of the journey by steamer up the
          “Brisbane,” or, rather,
          the “Bremer,” River, as it is called above the capital, and
          the latter part on
          horseback.
         
          This
          was my first experience on a cattle station, and I spent a
          most enjoyable time
          in the society of my host and his family in their beautiful
          broad verandahed
          house, covered as it was with gorgeous creepers; the gardens
          teeming with fruit
          and vines. Kangaroos, which every new hand wishes to shoot,
          were plentiful, and
          I killed two fine ones the first day I went out with a sort of
          revolver rifle
          which was lent me; but I found out that, though my friends
          were glad enough
          that I should kill plenty, yet they did not want any portion
          of those
          marsupials, not even the tails, so I shot no more. I remember
          that the old
          squatter was extremely pleased that I always cleaned his
          rifle, for he said
          that his experience was that “new chums” never took any care
          of his weapons.
         
          Returning
          to Brisbane, I became associated with a young parson, who had
          had some
          experience amongst the blacks of Victoria, but knew nothing of
          the Queensland
          aborigines. So, as I wished to see “blacks at home,” having so
          far only met
          with a specimen or so on a station, or the ever-present town
          loafer begging for
          “baccy,” we decided to ride off together and find a camp of
          natives, who, we
          were informed, were peaceably disposed and partly civilised,
          in the
          neighbourhood. Starting early one morning down the Sandgate
          Road, on two sorry
          jades which we hired from some livery stables, we reached the
          encampment by
          midday, following the course of a river according to the
          instructions given to
          us.
         
          My
          companion was an individual who combined the qualities of
          modesty with
          manliness, a pleasing combination in any country. He informed
          me during the
          ride that he had only lately arrived in Queensland, but that
          he hoped to remain
          some time, and that his object was to go amongst the blacks of
          the Colony, and,
          by first learning what he could of the language, endeavour to
          gain their
          confidence and try to do them good in various ways, in which
          also a little
          knowledge of medicine that he possessed would prove helpful.
          Since writing
          this, I hear that that grand missionary, the Rev. Chalmers of
          New Guinea, has
          been killed in a tribal war in that island; a man who was
          beloved by all who
          knew him, by every one who had read the incidents of his life,
          and the reason I
          mention him here is because my companion, in our quest of the
          black fellows’
          camp, stated that he was going to take Chalmers as an example
          of how to
          approach aborigines at the outset; thus, not to commence by
          preaching or
          tuition, though a modicum of this might follow when confidence
          had been
          established and the language mastered. In fine, that the
          system which had been
          pursued in the part of Victoria with which he was acquainted
          had only ended by
          the black fellows learning everything that was taught them
          like so many
          parrots, with the result that no lasting good was effected, so
          he intended
          trying another plan.
         
          When
          we arrived at the camp we received appalling proof that some
          of these
          statements applied as much to the Queensland as to the
          Victorian black.
         
          Men
          and women, clad for the most part in scanty old skirts, came
          running out to
          greet us, and it was at once evident that the appearance of my
          mate in his
          clerical attire had caused great excitement. A black fellow’s
          eyes are
          everywhere, and he takes in everything at a glance. The
          natives guessed rightly
          that I was a new arrival in the Colony, and as my companion
          had approached the
          camp by another route to mine, they probably thought that we
          were unacquainted
          with each other. At all events, a black fellow came up to me,
          as I happened to
          be the first up, and placing his hand gently on the bridle of
          my horse, nodded
          his head in the direction of my friend, with “That fellow
          priest?” I agreed;
          upon which, sinking his voice to a mysterious and hoarse
          whisper, he
          proceeded-“Budgery. That fellow like it put on shirt over
          trousel, get a top o’
          waddy, and yabber ‘bout debil, debil;” which, rendered in
          plain English,
          reads-“Good. That man puts his shirt on over his trousers,
          gets top of wood, or
          pulpit, and talks about devil, devil.”
Before I could make any remark upon
          this new and
          startling manner of describing a preacher, the whole mob of
          blacks, who had
          been listening to the information vouchsafed me, commenced to
          dance about with
          joy at having a parson in their midst; and we soon found out
          the reason, for my
          instructor, signing to the others to be quiet, struck an
          attitude, then turned
          to his reverence with an air of pride and satisfaction, and
          thus addressed him:
          “You give mine tixpence mine say lorsprer tin commands budgery
          quick all same
          white fellow,” which meant “Give me sixpence, I’ll say the
          Lord’s prayer and
          ten commandments splendidly quick as a white man does in
          church.”  Then,
          without a moment’s hesitation, he
          rattled off like lightning, as far as we could follow him, a
          page or so of the
          Church Service, throwing in a few responses here and there.
          The parson looked
          grave, as the black, the very second he had concluded, held
          out his hand for
          sixpence, and, upon the coin being refused him, evidently
          considered tha the
          had not spoken his piece fast enough, for he called up another
          member of his
          tribe, saying as he pushed him forward, “This fellow cabon
          quick one shillin’.”
          “This man very quick, one shilling.”
         
          The
          last fellow was throwing himself into an attitude and filling
          his lungs
          preparatory to a violent effort, when I gave them sixpence
          each to “move on.”
          This, however, was taken without any show of thanks, and they
          observed that
          they always had more for repeating their lessons. Then, seeing
          that we were
          obdurate, the first orator approached close to my companion, a
          happy thought
          having evidently struck him, and putting on a dignified
          expression said, “See
          mine yabber along big fellow hat?”
         
          The
          fact was that in those days the custom was still prevalent
          amongst certain of
          the older members of a congregation, upon entering a church,
          to put up their
          tall hats and say a little prayer into them. The blacks had
          witnessed this
          ceremony, and, I believe, were honestly endeavouring to please
          the member of the
          Church present by showing him that they were well acquainted
          with his doctrine.
         
          An
          old and battered tall hat had been produced, for the blacks
          often sported this
          article of attire when entering the towns, but we told them to
          drop it, and
          ended by examining the weapons and possum skins with which the
          camp was
          strewed, eventually buying a few curios for which we doubtless
          paid an abnormal
          price, but there was not much of interest in the collection.
         
          The
          parson was sad as we rode homewards; he said that this mockery
          of religion was
          evidently kept up by low white men who wished to make sport of
          these wretched
          black fellows. And subsequent experience proved to me that
          these half-tamed,
          loafing blacks were of little account, being lazy and given to
          begging for
          money, which goes at once in drink, though it is against the
          laws to supply
          them with liquor.
         
          When
          we parted, he told me that there was evidently no field for
          him amongst the
          specimen natives around the towns, but that he should go
          amongst the wild blacks.
          He was a good man, but if there had been a hundred as earnest
          as he was, little
          or no good would have come to their efforts, as subsequent
          experience amongst
          the aboriginals proved to me.
         
          I saw
          something of blacks on the stations later on. These men were
          not contaminated
          by the vices of a town and proved useful enough in a way, but
          they could not be
          depended upon for regular work. Admirable as they were for
          tracking lost cattle
          or strayed horse, and for shepherding, being well fed and
          cared for at the same
          time, yet they had a way of suddenly disappearing when most
          wanted, sometimes
          for good, at others for weeks at a time.
         
          There
          were exceptions to this, and they have been known to stay by
          their masters and
          remain faithful for years; but as a rule, they are restless,
          and often have
          proved treacherous by bringing up members of their tribe to
          the station, when
          at a given signal, they have suddenly fallen upon the white
          men, and in this
          way, murdered whole families. The native Mounted Police are
          then quickly on the
          spot, follow up the miscreants by the trail they leave behind,
          and punish them
          according to their desserts.
         
          These
          police consist of a force which is spread in small detachments
          over the
          out-lying districts. There are some six or more black
          troopers, or “boys” as
          they are called, in each detachment, with a white officer in
          command.
         
          Barracks
          of a rough but comfortable nature are placed in certain
          centres a long way from
          each other, and the duties of the force consist of patrolling
          stations within
          their districts and ascertaining whether the owners of these
          have any
          complaints to make in connection with the aborigines; also to
          seek for any one
          who may be lost in the bush-in fact, to protect the settlers
          generally. All the
          “boys” are picked trackers, they are well horsed, and are
          supplied with
          uniform. These uniforms are discarded when on the warpath,
          then their costume
          consists of a brown skin and a belt. As weapon, they each
          carry a carbine.
         
          I
          came across one of these small contingents on one occasion at
          an out-station,
          and accompanied them on their patrol for a few days, and
          though no incident
          worthy of record occurred on this occasion, I found the free
          and roving life so
          fascinating that I determined then and there that I would some
          day enlist as a member
          of the force. Later on in my Colonial career, I found my hopes
          realised, and
          the later pages of this journal are almost entirely devoted to
          my experiences
          whilst serving in the Native Mounted Police of Queensland. So
          I will say no
          more on the subject now.
         
          We
          have all heard of the man who landed on a distant shore with
          the proverbial
          half-a-crown in his pocket; I found him, though not in such a
          state of
          impecuniosity as he described his condition to be when he
          first touched the
          shore of Queensland. 
         
          Curiously
          enough, It proved that I knew all about his early career by
          report. My
          acquaintance with him happened in this way. There were a few
          hansom cabs in
          Brisbane when I arrived there; and one day I was lounging on
          the verandah of
          one of the hotels, “The Queens,” I think it was called, when a
          very spruce cab
          was driven up and the-cabby I was going to say-but rather the
          officer who drove
          it jumped down, took out the well fed horse that was in the
          shafts, led it into
          a shed nearby, rubbed it down, washed, dried, and fed it, then
          tied it up under
          the shade of a tree and proceeded to keep the flies off it
          with a whisk which
          he produced from the cab.
         
          These
          proceedings, coupled with the appearance of the driver, were
          so unlike anything
          I had seen in Piccadilly, that I determined to go for a drive.
         
          As
          for hailing such a Jehu, so gross a proceeding never entered
          my mind. On closer
          inspection, I saw that he was a good-looking man of about
          thirty, though the
          lines on his face betokened some years of a hard life in a hot
          country. With
          the exception of a well-kept moustache, he was clean shaved
          and dressed in an
          immaculate suit of white duck. I should have put him down as a
          retired military
          man, but it proved that he had belonged to the sister service.
         
          “How
          much to Breakfast Creek?” I asked, as I patted his horse.
         
          “Oh,
          anything you like,” he answered with a pleasant smile. “I see
          you like the
          mare, and ‘Kitty’ wants to stretch her legs, I’ll put to and
          then you jump in.”
         
          It
          did, and the mare, at the sound of her master’s voice, fairly
          flew into her
          collar and raced down that Breakfast Creek road in a manner
          that set me
          thinking, for it was my first, and what proved to be my
          sharpest, experience of
          a hansom cab at the Antipodes. I Saturday tight and smoked, as
          we bounded over
          ruts and roots of gum trees, for the roads were too new in the
          sixties to be
          entirely level. The mare never broke her trot the whole
          distance. At length,
          when one of the wheels was in a straight line with a huge
          stump, I was thinking
          of making a suggestion in a loud voice, for we were creating a
          great wind, when
          the trap was flung open and a beaming face appeared as the
          driver roared out
          “stand by.” I had just time to see that the off wheel had
          cleared the stump by
          about half an inch, when I was thrown partly off my seat as
          the mare was
          brought up suddenly on her haunches, to a full stop at the
          gate of the little
          hotel.
         
          True
          to my home instincts, I asked, “What is the fare?”
         
          “Oh,
          damn the expense,” was all the answer I received; and then,
          jumping off his
          perch. He resumed, “I’ll just see to old Kitty, and then I’m
          going to shout,”
          which means, to those unacquainted with Colonial slang, “I’m
          going to stand
          drinks.”
         
          So I
          stepped into the bar, and was presently joined by my driver,
          who, after calling
          for refreshments, said:
         
          “You
          see, I love that mare, she’s all in the world to me. I don’t
          often send her
          along that pace; she wanted to go, so I let her rip. I only
          carry that whip for
          show. What did you come out for? I see you’re a new hand;
          you’re right to be
          under the old flag.”
         
          However,
          he did not wait for an answer to his question. It was evident
          that he wished
          rather to speak of himself, for he continued:
         
          “My
          name is Payne-Jack Payne-I was a junior officer aboard one of
          Her Majesty’s
          ships at the siege of Sebastopol. The I left the service, and
          after a lot of
          ups and downs, worked my passage out here and came ashore at
          Moreton Bay, with
          two shillings and some pence in my pocket, all in coppers-what
          I had cleared,
          in fact, the night before landing, at nap. Then I sawed wood
          at a Brisbane
          boarding-house for a week, and so got free rations. After
          this, I helped a
          ‘bullock puncher’-anglice bullock driver-with his team far up
          into the back
          blocks; landed at a fine station, and there broke in horses
          for a couple of
          years or so. Ah! He was a grand old boss I had there. I turned
          out some fine
          ‘buggy cattle’-horses to draw buggies- for him too, and when I
          left he gave me
          one of them. Yes, I made some dollars at that place,” he
          concluded, with a
          sigh, as he drained his glass.
         
          “A
          pity that you did not stop on,” I suggested.
         
          “So
          it was,” he agreed, as he eyed me keenly. ‘Fact was some of
          the young hands
          there were a bit jealous; they thought a lot of my riding
          though.” Then, after
          a pause, he went on, “I don’t mind telling you, it’s
          thundering hot, thirsty
          work breaking in horses, and perhaps I lifted my elbow once
          too often, but I
          was always ‘right’ when I had a horse in hand. Ah! It was a
          cruel blow to the
          whole station when I told them I must go. Then I turned cabby
          down here, and
          mean to stick to it as long as I can make enough money to keep
          Kitty and
          myself.”
         
          Meantime,
          I had been racking my brains as to where I had heard my
          companion’s name
          before, and now it suddenly all came back to me, so first
          giving him my own
          name, I told him that I had seen his in a private journal,
          coupled with the
          phrase, “I never heard of him again,” and that he had served
          in the same
          man-of-war as my brother.
         
          “Done
          with you, old man, so I did,” he shouted, as he jumped off the
          bar counter,
          where he had perched himself the better to watch his mare
          through the window.
          “Shake hands- have another- now for a good old yarn.”
         
          But
          we did not stay long, as I had to get back to the hotel, to
          which he drove me
          leisurely, as I had begged him to. He had no false pride about
          him and would
          not accept a brass farthing for his services on this occasion.
          However, it was
          made up to him afterwards, for a friend and myself
          subsequently took him and
          his cab on several trips into the bush. These were over
          execrable roads where
          he had chiefly to walk his Kitty, at a note (£1) a day. We
          went for the purpose
          of collecting birds, specially seeking the “Rifle” bird of
          Paradise. These
          picnics were most enjoyable under the guidance of such a
          good-hearted fellow as
          he proved himself, especially in the care and affection he
          bestowed on his
          horse. Finally, I may repeat the wording of the old journal,
          that after I left
          Brisbane, “I never heard of him again.”
Colonial
            Experience
Concerning
            Social Matters
Industry
            of the Settlers
Newspapers
Trip to
            Moreton Bay
So far I had made no serious
          attempt with regard to
          cutting a line for myself in the Colony. Perhaps my first
          experiences had
          exercised a certain amount of prudence in the matter, and I
          argued to myself
          that if a man loafs for a period amongst the right sort of
          folk, he picks up
          many hints which are sure to be of service to him in the days
          that follow. I
          found that every one was most hospitable and kind, and that
          without
          introductions being presented to them- probably because
          of that fact.
         
          I
          enjoyed most pleasant times at Government House, the then
          Governor being the
          late Sir George Bowen. Amongst others, I met here many of the
          squatters and
          wool kings of the Colony, men who showed hospitality of the
          free and hearty
          nature which specially obtains in Australia; and, later on,
          under Governor
          Blackall’s régime friends and myself had the privelege of
          accompanying him in
          his “specials” up country; also of exploring Moreton Bay and
          the numerous creeks
          in the Kate steamer.
         
          As a
          set out, “Colonial experience,” was thus rendered both easy
          and fascinating.
          Besides this, during spare hours, I used to pay visits to the
          poorer class of
          settlers around the town, and to the richer farms of fruit and
          vegetables in
          the neighbourhood. The industry of the smaller settlers, at
          the time of which I
          write, consisted chiefly of growing fruits of the earth for
          the local markets.
          Their log houses were rough, and roofed with bark or zinc, as
          were, in fact,
          most of the houses of Brisbane and other towns; but their soil
          was virgin soil.
          Many a settler, both in southern and tropical Queensland, owed
          much to Mr.
          Hill, who was then curator of the Brisbane Botanical Gardens
          and also to the
          Acclimatization Society, for his success in cultivation, owing
          to the advice he
          received, and the consignments of suitable plants and trees
          which were sent him
          from these institutions.
         
          One
          of the best sources of information, especially to a new-comer,
          consists in his
          studying the local newspapers; and a letter which I read in
          the Brisbane
            Courier sent me off to an old established fruit farm at
          Boggo Road, near
          Brisbane, where I saw fruit grown by the acre. The letter read
          as follows:
Pines. “I send you the result of my twenty
          years’ experience
          of the uses and value of this delicious fruit. First-
          pineapples can be
          preserved at a cost of 5s per dozen for exportation to any
          part of the world.
          Second- the juice from one dozen of pineapples will make three
          bottles of rich,
          pure, wine, worth 1s 6d per bottle. The fruit, after taking
          away the juice will
          make six pounds of jam preserve, and the peels alone will
          yield three bottles
          of cider. Third- sixty pounds of pineapples (about three
          dozen), at a cost of
          5s, will yield one gallon of alcohol, worth (at least) 17s,
          giving a net profit
          of 4s per dozen. Brandy manufactured from the pineapple is far
          superior in
          flavour to brandy made from the grape; but the common still
          now in use is
          unsuited to the successful conversion of the pineapples into
          alcohol, as there
          exists a deleterious acid in the pineapple which the common
          still cannot
          extract.”
         
          The
          writer of this letter evidently possessed the secret of
          extracting, for the
          best proof, that of taste, assured me that his brandy was a
          nutty liqueur of
          delicious flavour. His idea, he told me, was to form a
          company.
         
          Excellent
          pines were selling at the time of which I write at 3d a dozen.
         
          The Queenslander
          was a weekly newspaper which I took in during my residence in
          the Colony. It
          was established in 1866. I sued sometimes to have my little
          “say” in it, and
          lately, the editor published a letter from me, concerning the
          “Palmer.” This is
          a tropical fish, and as there was a discussion in a Queenslander
           of 1901 as to
          the origin of the name, I
          settled the matter by sending a letter to the editor giving my
          reasons for so
          naming the fish, and stating that I had the honour of being
          the first to effect
          his capture with rod and salmon fly, which letter he printed.
         
          Amongst
          other excursions I went with a shipmate of mine to Moreton Bay
          on a camping-out
          expedition. My last experience of living under canvas had been
          whilst shooting
          around the Paarl- Cape of Good Hope- in 1863. But each Colony
          has its own
          little, or rather important, way in connection with tent life,
          so that on this
          occasion, I gladly availed myself of the services of one
          “Pablo,” a Malay
          fisherman who knew every yard of the bay. We started in a
          rowing boat from the
          Brisbane wharf, and dropped down the river during one of those
          bright July days
          that occur during the unrivalled winter of Queensland; we
          rowed until the mouth
          of the river was reached, then up sail and steered for King
          Island. Here we
          made a large fire and rigged our tent under the lee of a
          scrub, close to
          high-water mark. The might was bitterly cold.
         
          The
          next day we made Dunwich. This is an establishment kept up by
          the Government
          for old shepherds and other people who can no longer help
          themselves. From
          there, we eventually made our point, and a long sail it was,
          to “Flat” rock in
          the southern channel. Here we had excellent sport with hooks
          and lines, for in
          three hours we pulled up some two hundred large schnapper,
          also two groper-one
          of these latter weighed forty pounds.
         
          Whilst
          camped in another part of the Bay, we received a visit from
          the chief warders
          of the convict island of St. Helena; they had made us out with
          their glasses
          and brought a most acceptable present of butter, eggs, and
          milk, from the
          superintendent, Mr. McDonald, who keeps the convicts employed
          cultivating cane
          and making sugar.
         
          Before
          we left the Bay to return home, we paid a visit to H.M.S.
          Blanche, which was
          anchored there, by the invitation of her captain, and spent a
          most pleasant
          time, as one always does on board a man-of-war.
         
          So
          far chiefly amusement, and it occurred to me that it was high
          time to ask
          oneself the question- “Why come eighteen thousand miles and
          more, simply to gad
          about and amuse oneself?”
         
          The
          question was answered by my mate after we had returned to
          Brisbane. “Let us go
          north,” he said, “and look about.” No sooner said than done.
          We were both free
          agents, and packing, which requires much forethought and brain
          work at home,
          did not trouble us a little bit. It consisted of throwing
          sundry “slops,” as
          ready-made clothing was called, into a couple of leather bags,
          when we took the
          first steamer bound for the northern ports, my first advance
          towards entering
          the Native Police, though ‘twixt this and then I experienced a
          bit more.
          Colonial experience. I will first repeat more fully the “why
          and the wherefore”
          of the corps of “Black Police.”
VARIED
            EXPERIENCES
Fuller
            description of the
            Native Mounted Police
More
            Colonial Experience
“Overlanding”
Our
            “Skippers.”
We “Rush.”
“Australia
          has been won by a
          hundred years of bloodshed.”
         
          So I
          have heard more than one old squatter aver, and there is truth
          in the
          statement. The aborigines in all countries naturally fight for
          their rights, so
          in Australia they treated the first white men as enemies, and
          began by
          murdering inoffensive shepherds.
         
          We
          Britons, with good reason, determined to develop and populate
          this magnificent
          island continent, and as time went on we organised a force of
          Native Mounted
          Police in the new Colony of Queensland, for the purpose of
          protecting outside
          settlers from the raids of the blacks.
         
          These
          troopers were drawn from various tribes which inhabited the
          more settled
          districts. They were commanded by white officers, and
          distributed in small
          squads in various outlying parts of the country.
         
          The
          barracks for the officers were built of logs and roofed with
          bark. The
          troopers, or “boys,” as I shall continue to call them, had
          “gunyahs,” or huts,
          of their own outside the main building. These gunyahs were
          practically sheds of
          bark open to the air all round, for a native catches cold, or
          even consumption,
          if he has to sleep in tents or under the white man’s roof.
         
          As I
          served in the force during a portion of the early sixties, I
          will endeavour to
          describe as accurately as possible the sort of life we led,
          and the duties we
          had to perform. 
         
          I
          have nothing so thrilling to communicate as fights with
          bushrangers; for those
          lively gentry confined their attentions to the older and
          richer parts of the
          Colonies; but of adventure and incident, I had my fair share,
          and will here set
          down my experiences. At the same time it will be obvious to
          any Queenslander of
          those days that some episodes connected with the doings of the
          force cannot be
          published. Events happened which were unavoidable, and the
          “boys” got beyond
          control in certain circumstances. There was a special instance
          of this when an
          officer of theirs was speared to death. This event happened
          not many miles from
          our own camp, soon after I joined.
         
          By
          the way, this poor fellow met his death owing to his own want
          of judgment and
          experience, for he had formed his camp on the edge of a dense
          scrub, the most
          dangerous of all situations. Had he, for want of a better
          place, pitched his
          tent inside the thicket, it would have been safer, as spears
          and other wooden
          weapons cannot be wielded to any advantage in such a place. 
         
          The
          blacks rushed the camp at daylight-the “boys” were asleep as
          usual, and their
          officer was speared in his tent.
         
          It
          must be borne in mind by those who are not “in the know,” that
          these
          half-civilised natives, now turned into troopers, were
          enlisted from different
          tribes, and for that reason, the white man who commanded them
          was safe, as all
          tribes were and are practically at war with each other, and
          not only was he
          safe, but I can say that a strong feeling of friendship was
          engendered between
          master and man. This was the more marked when in the wilds of
          the bush, and
          completely cut off from civilisation; the “boys” would not
          only protect their
          officer from hidden danger, but would also thoughtfully
          provide him with little
          luxuries in the shape of fish or game.
         
          But I
          am bound to admit that they failed, in spite of all warnings,
          in one important
          matter; they would not keep watch at night. In spite of the
          best intentions, a
          few minutes after supper would find them stretched around
          their tiny camp fires
          buried in a profound slumber, their heads under the blanket
          which each man
          carried on his horse whilst patrolling.
         
          Before
          entering the Police, I had been through a very usual
          experience incidental to
          “new chums,” which I will touch upon lightly. I was first
          drafted on to a sheep
          station, which was situated some miles inland from the
          township of Gladstone,
          to do some “foot rotting,” but, however interesting and
          intellectual an
          occupation this might have proved, I was never able to judge,
          for soon after I
          had set to work in paring sheep’s diseased toes, the station
          “bust up.”
         
          After
          this I helped to “overland” cattle. Here was rather more
          excitement in watching
          round the fires at night, and endeavouring to avoid hostile
          meetings with the
          blacks. One incident, however, in connection with this
          overlanding I must not
          omit to mention, if only to prove that a man should not be
          waked up too
          roughly. We had lit the fires as usual one night round the
          cattle to prevent
          their breaking away. “An old hand”-anglice, old convict-whom
          we dubbed Jonah,
          had been watching at one of these fires, and had then fallen
          asleep. During the
          day we had seen many tracks of blacks, of whom Jonah stood in
          special dread.
         
          A new
          chum, who had lately joined our party, in going his rounds,
          had thought it a
          great joke to paint the face of the sleeping beauty with a bit
          of burnt  wood.
          There was probably a spark left in the
          fire stick; anyhow, Jonah, on feeling the touch, sprang to his
          feet yelling
          “Black fellows!” whipped out his revolver and shot the young
          joker. The ball
          went through the fleshy part of his thigh, and we had to
          invalid him to the
          nearest station, some fifty miles away.
         
          Since
          witnessing this near approach to a tragedy, I have always
          endeavoured to wake
          any one gently, even in the old country, so strong is the
          feeling imbued within
          me to “Let sleeping dogs lie.”
         
          Having
          arrived at our destination after some two months of crawling
          work, we found
          that the cattle we had charge of were going to be seized by
          the agent of a Bank,
          for an overdraft, we presumed, but did not stay to enquire,
          and having received
          our pay, we dispersed.
         
          Before
          we had got rid of these cattle, rumours had reached us that
          most promising gold
          diggings had “broken out” in the neighbourhood of Maryborough,
          a coast township
          situated between the twenty-fourth and twenty-sixth degree of
          south latitude,
          and whilst casting about for something to do, after being paid
          off, we found
          that these rumours resolved themselves into actual fact, for
          we learnt from
          reliable men, travellers who had lately been in the Wide Bay
          district, that a
          great rush had set in to the spot indicated. There is a great
          fascination in
          the term “diggings,” especially was it so to one, like myself,
          who had never
          been on them. It meant gold, and though I had no thought of
          procuring any of
          the precious metal amongst a rush of old diggers, still I
          should surely see it
          in its native state.
         
          The
          chief line of coasting steamers of the time belonged to the
          Australian
          Steamship Navigation Company. I made many trips in these boats
          during my
          sojourn in Queensland, and thus became acquainted with the
          genial and worthy
          skippers; a photographic group representing four of these
          officers, I still
          possess: Captains Chatfield, Champion, Cottier and Quayle.
         
          Therefore,
          rather than miss a chance of seeing gold being mined, a friend
          and myself
          placed our small amount of luggage on board one of these
          boats, and prepared to
          do our small share and “rush” with the rest. The steamer was
          crammed, and we
          had to shake down as best we could for two or three nights.
         
          Having
          completed the sea part of the journey, we took horses, another
          friend joined
          us, and together we proceeded, as recorded in my journal of
          the time.
THE
            DIGGINGS- GYMPIE CREEK
The
            Diggings- Gympie Creek
Descriptive
            of Gold Mines
            and their Working
“A Roll
            Up” – John Chinaman
The
            Surgeon Rushed
The Gympie Creek diggings, situated on and about the Mary River, and, roughly speaking, about one hundred miles from Brisbane and fifty from Maryborough, may be looked upon as the richest gold field that up to this time has been discovered in the Colony, and “breaking out” as they did during a periodof most severe commercial depression, in 1867, these diggings may be said to have almost entirely saved Brisbane from utter insolvency; but for their discovery many of its business men would have gone into the Insolvency Court, whereas they have now branch stores on the diggings doing a thriving trade.
         
          When
          these diggings were some few months old, I visited them in
          company with
          friends- there were then from nine to ten thousand men on
          them. We started from
          the interior of the Burnett district, during one of the
          hottest and driest
          summers that had been known there; our entire journey,
          therefore, was a very
          hot and dusty one, but taking into consideration the dryness
          of the season, we
          found the country both well grassed and watered.
         
          Sometimes
          our track took us over barren ridges growing stunted iron-bark
          trees, and
          covered with stones, with here and there pieces of quartz
          cropping up;
          sometimes through tracts growing silver-leaved iron-bark and
          stunted
          blood-wood, sure signs of good country, whilst the “flats”
          looked amazingly
          green in contrast with the surrounding country; here the grass
          and the common
          fern grew luxuriantly, reminding one of a park in the old
          country, until,
          looking up, one sees the beautifully green and shady swamp
          mahogany and “apple”
          trees, when any distant dreams are quickly dispelled. We also
          passed through
          scrubs growing gigantic pine trees. The whole of the road,
          from beginning to
          end, was several inches deep in white dust as fine as flour,
          which obliged us
          to carefully wash our eyes every evening for fear of “sandy
          blight.”
         
          Approaching
          nearer to the diggings we found more bare ridges, growing gums
          and iron-barks
          of a great height, and as straight as arrows. Crossing the
          Mary River, which we
          found at this point to be a beautiful running stream, whose
          banks were fringed
          by luxuriant vine-scrubs, we came upon the first sign of a
          digging. This was a
          hole, resembling a grave, sunk in a gully; the earth thrown
          out was yellow, but
          the hole had been abandoned, evidently proving in miner’s
          slang, a “duffer.”
          All the gullies also within ten miles of the diggings proper
          showed signs of
          having been tested; often hundreds of feet below us a heap of
          reddish earth
          would mark the spot, like a distant rabbit burrow.
         
          On
          arriving within some four miles of the diggings, we heard that
          we were in the
          neighbourhood of a new “rush”! It being our first visit to the
          diggings, we
          wondered whether diggers actually ran across on these
          occasions; for we could
          hardly fancy that were even gold the object in view it would
          be sufficient to
          make a man run up and down stony gullies, thermometer standing
          at one hundred
          and twenty degrees, carrying pick and shovel. We, however, met
          parties of men
          walking along off the track, as though nothing unusual had
          occurred; but
          subsequent experience showed us that this apathy was only
          manifest after men
          had been constantly disappointed by false rumours, and that
          when the report was
          verified, they ran as hard as they could, often in their hurry
          leaving behind
          blankets, “billies,” picks, and everything, and continuing day
          and night till
          the golden spot was reached.
         
          We
          met a few disappointed diggers returning, but they are always
          to be found on
          the best diggings. After quitting some sandy ranges, we came
          down on to a flat,
          gullies from other ranges on our left running into it, and
          thus running out
          quite shallow. It was at the tail of one of these gullies that
          we first saw
          four claims were marked out by means of stakes driven in at
          the four corners of
          each claim. Two men were resting in the first hole we looked
          at, which was only
          two feet deep. All the other holes in the gully were in the
          same state, with
          the exception of one, but this one, at the very tail of the
          gully, was down
          twelve or fourteen feet, and a crowd of diggers were round its
          mouth; these
          were waiting for the owners to “bottom,” i.e., reach the
          description of earth
          which contains the gold, and we were afterwards told that old
          diggers from the
          other Colonies frequently made mistakes on these diggings,
          going right through
          the bottom, for the auriferous soil differs altogether on
          different diggings.
          In this case, some of the earth was carried off in a sack to
          the nearest
          water-hole and washed, but was found only to contain the
          colour, and after
          trying other claims with the same result, this gully was
          abandoned.
         
          From
          this spot to the township, we passed numerous deserted claims,
          looking like graveyards,
          with here and there small water-holes the colour and
          consistency of pea-soup,
          rendered so by the quantities of dirt that had been washed in
          them; drays were
          encamped in all directions, with numerous tents, many of the
          latter showing
          their New Zealand origin, by bearing the name “Hokitike
          Hokitike” upon them.
          Women and children were cooking; the only men we saw here were
          stragglers in
          red shirts and long boots, and a few cutting bark from the
          iron-bark trees.
         
          Ascending
          to the summit of a hill, we found ourselves in the town, and
          at one end of a
          very long street; and though little more than two months old
          “Nashville” looked
          larger than most of the coast towns, and certainly presented a
          most lively and
          animated appearance. Stretching along the side of a deep gully
          it looked
          something like a foreign town on a great market day. On each
          side of us trees
          were being cut down, or their topmost limbs lopped off by a
          black fellow. Bark
          humpies, tents, and even flag-staffs were being erected, while
          many of the
          houses were of two stories, and shingled- a brass-plate on one
          bearing the
          inscription of “Surgeon and Accoucheur.” We learnt that the
          sites for the shops
          were secured by payment of £4 for the first year, then, if the
          digging turns
          out a success, these sites are offered for competition.
         
          Some
          little was down the street we came across a gully running
          right across it and
          terminating in the main gully, and so closely had the smaller
          one been worked
          on each side of the road, that barely sufficient room had been
          left for a dray
          to pass between the shafts, which were in many cases sixteen
          and twenty feet
          deep. A little temporary shed was erected over the mouth of
          each shaft; this
          shelters the man who is winding up the buckets of dirt which
          his mate fills at
          the bottom. Each shaft had a large heap of dirt round its
          mouth, and these were
          being gradually carried off by one-horse drays to the Mary
          River, there to be
          cradled and washed; these drays were earning £3 to £4 a day.
          We accompanied one
          dray with its precious load to the river, about a mile
          distant, passing on our
          way amongst endless tents and bark humpies, whilst holes were
          being sunk in
          every direction. Passing through a few yards of thick scrub
          overhanging the
          river, we found ourselves on its banks, at this part very
          steep. As far as the
          eye could reach, both up and down the stream, we saw one long
          line of diggers
          washing the dirt and rocking their cradles, the water
          perfectly yellow from the
          process.
         
          The
          dray we had accompanied was backed to the brink, and its load
          tilted down a
          channel cut in the bank, being thus deposited at the feet of
          the washers who
          are usually mates of those who work the claim. All was being
          carried on with
          the utmost regularity and decorum, each claim having so many
          feet of the river
          to wash in. We counted about thirty drays near us going and
          returning. Two men
          and a boy were engaged washing the particular heap that we
          were interested in.
          One of them had a long trough filled with water in which he
          raked the dirt
          backwards and forwards with a stick, another used the cradle
          while the boy had
          the tin dish.
         
          The
          cradle was placed at the edge of the water, and with short
          strokes rocked
          quickly to and for. The upper part being a sieve allows the
          small stuff to fall
          through on to a lower shelf, but keeps back the pebbles, and,
          as we had an
          opportunity of witnessing in this case, many a plump nugget,
          which the
          “cradler” picked out with the most provoking coolness, and
          carelessly threw
          into a pint pot at his feet. The boy was occupied in washing
          the “tailings” of
          the cradle-“tailings” means the dirt which has undergone one
          washing and
          examination. These were washed in a tin dish by its being
          gently waved round
          and round in the water till everything is washed out,
          excepting the gold,
          which, owing to its weight, remains. We had selected this
          washing, as the dirt
          came from a very rich claim, turning out as much as eight
          ounces to the load,
          and gold was worth at this period £3 8s an ounce at the
          Commercial Bank, the
          only one at the diggings at the time.
         
          Some
          of the diggers on the Creek were “stacking their dirt,” ie.
          heaping up a great
          quantity before carting it to water. We saw one ordinary
          looking heap which an
          old digger valued at about £1,000, yet no gold could be seen
          in it, till
          washed; but on passing these heaps after a shower of rain, the
          gold will
          frequently become visible.
         
          True
          diggers are a fine set of men, and quiet and orderly as a
          rule. They always
          like to see fair play, and have certain rules amongst
          themselves, which they
          adhere to most strictly. While they have money, they live on
          the very best of
          everything. Their slang is peculiar, and their expressions
          quaint.
         
          I was
          one day gazing down a dark shaft, wondering whether any one
          was there, and as
          my eyes became accustomed to the gloom, I saw there was a
          drive at the bottom,
          and fancying I heard a noise, asked, “Is any one down there?”
         
          “Only
          a buck rabbit digging a hole for his self,” was the answer, in
          which I omit a
          word, referring to the buck, extremely expressive, but
          scarcely parliamentary.
          Having received this answer, I was thinking of retreating,
          when my digger
          backed out of his hole, and threw me up a nugget with “Not so
          bad, mate.”
         
          One
          can hardly understand such confidence displayed towards a
          total stranger, but
          in many other instances, I noticed the same trait in their
          character. This
          nugget was followed by another, and I returned them by
          descending his rope.
          There was barely room for two of us, four feet by two being
          the proportion of
          the shaft, and twenty-four feet deep. I was permitted to crawl
          into the drive
          and pick out some dirt; and having the luck to find a small
          nugget weighing
          about 5 pennyweights, was allowed to retain it. This man was
          clearing £30 or
          £40 a week; but from the very short acquaintance I had with
          the work, I am
          satisfied alluvial digging is tremendous fatigue- at the
          bottom of a deep
          shaft, lying in a hole which just fits one, and picking the
          earth away with a
          few inches of one’s face.
         
          In
          the bottom of the gullies some of the digging was very hard,
          and we watched a
          man with his pick working at the rock in a shallow trench, and
          working steadily
          too; and on returning the next day he had made but little
          progress and found no
          gold, but je persevered and was at length rewarded.
         
          Some
          remarkable cases have occurred at Gympie of gold-finding. One
          gentleman,
          connected with the Government, went there for a holiday,
          commenced digging, and
          shortly afterwards turned up the monster nugget of these
          diggings; it weighed
          considerably over eight hundred ounces.
         
          It is
          astonishing with what rapidity the bakers, butchers, and
          storekeepers flock to
          the diggings, and we found them not only supplying all the
          necessaries of life,
          but also most of its luxuries, and at Gympie nothing was
          expensive. We stayed
          at one of the public-houses that was being built, and though
          too soon for beds,
          yet we lived as well as we could have done in any town, and as
          there were no
          mosquitoes, we managed to sleep very comfortable with a
          blanket on the ground.
         
          Even
          at this early period of its history Nashville boasted of a
          café de Paris and a
          billiard table. Every evening the town presented a very gay
          appearance, from
          the numerous lights hanging from shop fronts and trees on each
          side of its
          long, straggling street.
         
          But the
          night par excellence was Saturday night; the whole
          length of the street
          was so full of diggers that we could hardly move at all, and
          what with singing,
          swearing, fighting, drinking, bargaining for loaves, beef, and
          sausages for
          Sunday’s dinner, the noise was tremendous, while every
          public-house was crammed
          with men discussing their various finds, and shouting in the
          double senses of
          the word, with “here’s luck,” “here’s fun,” “here’s my opinion
          of you,” or “to
          show there’s no coolness,” etc., while they frequently paid
          for drinks with
          small samples of gold. In one house we came upon a huge
          Italian singing
          selections from the Operas to a delighted audience, who,
          though they could not
          understand the style of singing, judging from the remarks they
          made, evidently
          appreciated his fine voice.
         
          We
          entered a music-hall shortly afterwards (one shilling
          entrance), heard some
          good songs and recitations, witnessed some fair boxing, and
          the best step
          dancer that we had ever before seen performing to the lively
          tune of two
          fiddles. On a digging, one often comes across a really good
          professional, who,
          failing to be successful in digging, makes money by the
          exercise of his
          profession. One favourite vocalist of the diggers used to make
          his £1 or so a
          day by “fossicking,” ie., digging here and there, but going to
          no depth, and at
          night he attracted crowded houses by his singing.
         
          But
          what interested us a great deal more than any other branch of
          the diggings were
          the quartz reefs, and it is chiefly on the extent and richness
          of these that
          the permanency of a digging depends, for good reefs will last
          for very many
          years before they are worked out. On the alluvial diggings
          (dispersed among the
          quartz reef) men that we knew had worked out their claims and
          could not get
          others, but the owners of a good reef may be drawing gold from
          it for a very
          long period.
         
          What
          are known as a “poor man’s diggings” are alluvial, while the
          reefs require
          capital to work them.
         
          A
          gentleman with whom we were acquainted was part owner in one
          of the richest
          reefs at Gympie, the “Lady Mary” reef. His shaft was near a
          deep gully, and he
          informed us that he first struck the reef by noticing the
          pieces of quartz
          lying in a peculiar position in the bank of this gully, and
          “pointing” in one
          direction; his shaft was about twelve feet deep, and while we
          were there it was
          not being worked, as there was no quartz crushing machine on
          the diggings, and
          it is useless to heap up more than a certain quantity of
          quartz before a
          machine arrives.
         
          The
          law in this case is, that a digger must “shepherd” his claim
          up to twelve
          o’clock every day- he must be on it, whether working
          it or not- if he
          fails to do this any one can “jump” it; by registering the
          claim, this can be
          avoided. This shaft was a large open one; two easy drops, and
          we were at the
          bottom of it, but not prepared for what we saw. On a sheet of
          bark being
          removed, we were failry transfixed with astonishment; the slab
          of quartz
          disclosed to view was about a yard and a half long, and about
          two yards deep.
          These were not, of course, its natural boundaries; it might go
          for miles in
          length and several yards deep, but this was the extent laid
          bare. This quartz
          was of a very white description, thus contrasting strongly
          with the gold, which
          was scattered all over its surface, chiefly in specks the size
          of two or three
          pins’ heads, but sometimes in patches as large as a pea. There
          was scarcely a
          square inch of quartz without gold in it. On a piece of the
          quartz being
          chipped off, we found the gold inside as thick as ever. So
          slow were
          capitalists to believe in the richness of these reefs, that
          four months after
          this only one crushing machine had made its appearance on the
          ground, and this
          could only crush about thirty tons a week; and many diggers
          were actually for
          weeks crushing their quartz by hand in iron mortars. Some
          specimens of quartz
          that were shown us were so rich, that after being cracked by a
          blow, the piece
          would not separate till it was twisted in two, the gold inside
          holding it
          together.
         
          Money
          can be made in various ways on diggings, apart from digging;
          but I would warn
          any one from taking shares in a Quartz Reef Company without
          great care, and
          ascertaining every particular by himself direct. On the other
          hand, a great
          chance is sometimes lost; a visitor to Gympie was offered a
          share in a reef for
          £5 before it was opened; he declined. The reef was opened the
          same afternoon,
          and so very rich was the quartz found to be, that he could not
          then have
          purchased a share for £100.
         
          Many
          men did well at the commencement of these diggings by
          carrying, driving cattle,
          and sheep, butchering etc but like the diggings themselves,
          these were soon
          overdone.
         
          The
          Government have been latterly forming roads, laying out the
          town, and extending
          the telegraph to it. Gympie, though rich, does not extend over
          a great extent
          of ground so far, and hundreds have found there is no room,
          and have had to
          turn back. Some have been waylaid and murdered by the blacks
          for the sake of
          the miserable clothes they have on. One man, having been
          stripped of his
          clothes, appeared at a station we were staying at. He had
          plastered his body
          over with mud to protect it from the sun.
         
          All
          the Chinese diggers were chased off by the Europeans during
          our stay- they
          numbered six hundred. It certainly was a funny sight to see.
         
          “Roll
          up, roll up,” we heard roared all through the camp, and at
          once celestials were
          flying helter-skelter, taking flying leaps over claims,
          sometimes into them,
          when they would be dragged out by their pigtails and cuffed on
          again. At first
          they started laden with buckets, pots, bedding, and other
          gear; gradually this
          was cast aside as they whirled along with an incessant
          jabbering, which was
          only equaled by the oaths and shouts of the pursuing party.
          Those who had
          coiled up their pigtails got off easiest, but when that
          appendage was flying
          behind, the owner sometimes came to grief, as the waggling
          tail was too
          tempting. The Chinese mob eventually out-distanced their
          pursuers, but “not the
          six hundred.”
         
          And
          there was yet another “roll up” after this, in which a
          professional man nearly
          lost his life, the surgeon before mentioned, he of the brass
          plate. A digger
          who had broken his leg in two places was hauled up from the
          shaft and lay
          groaning on the bank; his mates did their best for him by
          putting up boughs to
          shield him from the sun, whilst one of their number started
          off as hard as he
          could run for the surgeon; but presently this messenger tore
          back to the group
          and shouted out:
“The doctor won’t come unless he’s
          paid first.”
“Won’t he?” rose with a yell; and
          “roll up” went
          through the camp with a roar, as every man, with the exception
          of those left to
          guard the claims, together with their big dogs, made a rush
          for the
          brass-plated house. The doctor just received a warning in
          time, but showed a
          further ignorance of the digger nature by firing with a shot
          gun in the face of
          the advancing mob. This infuriated them to such a degree that
          they replied with
          revolver shots at every window and door of the surgeon’s
          house; but when they
          at length broke in, they only found an innocent apprentice,
          his master having
          bolted out of the back door.
         
          When
          the situation was understood, the young medical student was
          carried off with
          the utmost kindness, he tended the wounded man till he was
          well, received a
          handsome reward, and, furthermore, so pleased the diggers that
          they set him up
          as their special doctor.
         
          When
          we next looked for the house of the brass plate we only found
          ruins.
         
          A
          Colonial newspaper stated in May, 1868, that there were within
          the small area
          comprising the Gympie gold field, no less than forty-two reefs
          being worked,
          and over four thousand ounces of gold were sent down every
          fortnight to
          Maryborough, and quoting from the British Australasian of may
          9, 1901, I find
          that the total yield from the Gympie field to the end of 1899
          was about two and
          a half million ounces. The value of the gold produced nearly
          eight and a half
          millions pounds sterling.